[2004] FAMILY HOLIDAYS   

0001 Italian Tour, 1956

Our second holiday abroad was a tour of Italy.  As was usual in those days, even for what were considered to be the longest journeys, we still had to go by train rather than by plane as we now would. Accordingly, we spent almost two days – and one sleepless night - travelling across the continent to Milan, where our coach tour started. Again it was something of a nightmare, and certainly a marathon in terms of endurance, though this time we did have a bit more room to sleep in.

At a time when very few such tours were organised, and even package holidays as a whole were a very specialised business, the tour company was called Sylvios. It was run by an Italian family. It was a small family firm – as so much of business was in those days – so for our courier we had one of the sons; as. As it was one of the first tours they had ever organised, his sister was also along for the ride. She was gorgeous, but young, and she had her fat mama along as chaperone. 

As it is primarily an industrial city, I have never seen much of interest in Milan, having been there several times since. In any case all that I can remember from that trip, still recovering from the journey, was the cathedral with the golden statue of the Virgin on the top.  When the amount of money you could spend on foreign travel was rationed by the government, even our hotel was pretty basic, as they were throughout the trip, without the en-suite facilities which you would expect these days.  But in general they were comfortable enough; though that in Milan, still recovering from the war, was rather dilapidated.

But this was compensated by the fact that, in Milan, I ate real spaghetti for the first time; sitting outdoors in a courtyard under the starlit night sky. It was wonderful. I have loved it ever since, though I have never been able to cook the real tomato flavour into my own versions.

From Milan we went to Venice, though - as was to be the case with all the subsequent hotels - we stayed at a hotel in the hinterland. I guess they were cheaper. I remember we thought it was part of the ‘Albergo’ chain. It was only later that we realised that this was the generic name for a hotel. From there we travelled by coach into Venice itself and had the obligatory gondola trip.  I can remember visiting the usual sites; from the Grand Canal to St.Marks Square, but I've been there several times since and they are all mixed up in my memory.  The only thing I can remember clearly is, in all the excitement of the place, dancing a tarantella while waiting for the gondola, with a rose clasped between my teeth!

From there we went on through the Appenines, making our way towards Rome.  I suppose we must have stopped at the shrine of St Francis, but my main memory is of the shrine of Loretto.  It was an eerie place, up in the mountains, and reminded me and my mother of a short story about ‘the town of the cats’; where cats come out after the dark and monopolise the town.  I don't remember anything else about the town itself, it was only an overnight stop. 

I do remember, however, what went on in the hotel. We, the youngsters, stayed up after dinner in the dining-room; being entertained by the waiters, singing Italian songs for us. The room itself was spectacular with concealed fluorescent lighting which changed colour.  It was very romantic.  It was there that I met my first holiday girlfriend, Marie. I remember how she looked, a pretty brunette, but in particular I remember very clearly how she felt.  She was one of the few girlfriends I've ever had who was slim. She had a party dress which was blue chiffon over silk. She floated in my arms as I put them around her waist. I was soon besotted, especially as she sat very intimately on my lap in the coach -- which was very romantic until, in the process, we broke the arm of the seat!  Unfortunately, romantic as it was, it lasted only two days, before she moved on to Roberto, the handsome son of Sylvio - who was the courier - leaving behind the young boy who was me!

In Rome we saw all the things that you might expect; the Coliseum, St Peter's etc. We were blessed by the pope at Castle Gandolfo; much to the disgust of my mother who – as CofE -refused to kneel before him. We also went to the Villa Deste, with its marvellous fountains. I know we went into the catacombs, for the whole family remembered Marie’s mother – from Bolton – saying in a broad Lancashire accent, while looking at all the bones, “Eh they’d make a lovely soup!” I have a very evocative photo taken at the Trevi Fountain, with me next to Marie; but regrettably she was draped all over Roberto!

From there we went south to Naples. This was mainly memorable because of a photo, demanded by two elderly Welsh ladies, of me on the terrace overlooking Naples – which they wanted to show their friends with the title “See Naples and Dai!”  Of course, we went to Pompei, which was fascinating; though – with the innocence of that age - we were carefully steered away from the brothels – and, indeed, I have never seen these on my later trips either.        

Next came Sorrento, of which I remember only walking round the shops – and buying a marquetry music box. Visiting Capri, in those days, was the excuse for everyone to try and see Gracie Fields – who was still the superstar and popular heroine of the times but was a tax exile. Of course none of us actually saw her, though her British tea shop did a brisk trade! 

We made our way back up north, visiting Florence – which did not impress me – and Pisa where the photo showed me hanging over the edge of the tower, in the days when you were allowed to climb all over it. My mother was horrified at the risk I was taking, when she eventually saw the picture.

We then visited Portifino – then one of the playgrounds of the rich but of which I remember nothing – and then caught the train for another two day marathon back to the UK.

My most important memory, a sad one, was of two days of romance; and then a week of frustration. My theme for the holiday was the then popular Cole Porter song ; “It was just one of those things”.

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