ETHIOPIA & PRESIDENTIAL ADVISOR
0309 Domestic Arrangements
[this was the instruction to tutors
travelling to Addis for the first time]
NOTES ON THE LIVING ARRANGEMENTS
ETC.
In rather random order;
TRAVEL
You must have a visa each time (and it only lasts for 2 months), but it only seems to take a week or so to turn around in the UK.
On arrival at Addis, get through passport control as fast as possible - there are very few baggage carts! You may have to do a lot of fast talking to get through the various passport/customs etc, but the mention of the Prime Minister's office (for whom we are working) sometimes does the trick - but a letter from Bob Masterton explaining why you are here is even better (and a listing from him of any items you are being asked to deliver also helps).
It is even more difficult to leave, so allow plenty of time for this. You will need to fill in an exit document (on tables around the departure hall), so get this before you join the (long) queue to justify why you want to leave. They may ask for a form, about money transactions, which should be given to you on entry (but never is), so just say it wasn't given. If there is a problem call the British Council (outside office hours Rosemary''s home number is 610344, and Michael Sargent's is 517513.
Jabs for yellow fever are obligatory, they will ask you before passport control if you have had one - though they don't seem to want documentation (though it would be worth having it). Non-obligatory, but advised, are typhoid (the jabs for which, with booster, which can lay you out for a few days), hepatitis (less of a problem but needed every two months) and meningitis. Malaria tablets are not needed for Addis, but may be advisable if you go to the lower altitudes in the South.
ACCOMODATION
It am told that there will be a flat/villa made available for us eventually, though it is not yet in a fit state! In the meantime I have been staying in the Ghion Hotel; government owned and reportedly the best in Addis (though the Hilton is more Westernised - but is not available to us). I have a suite (room 331) of large, comfortable, bedroom, sitting room (with refrigerator, which does not work and is empty!), bathroom (which all works - though the light switch is temporary and tends to hide itself behind the mirror - with soap, and towels), and dressing room! The government (apparently the Ministry of Defence) is paying for all accommodation and meals (but not anything else - especially phone bills!). There is an open air lido next to the hotel, which is free to guests.
There is a television in the room, though all programmes seem to be in Amharic (as do all the radio programmes). If you bring a radio capable of receiving short wave, the best frequency for the BBC World Service is 15420, sometimes 15400, with 17885 as backup.
If you want further rooms the suites cost $100 per day, and rooms (all with bath) costs $72 on the front, $60 on the back and $48 elsewhere.
FOOD
I tend to eat in the Ghion's 'European' restaurant (though do not expect too much resemblance to your normal food). The food is very overcooked and not very appetising - but as a result I have had no problems with food poisoning (though I avoid anything raw, such as salads - which is the advice given). I drink 'Ambo', which is the local mineral water which is the best I have ever tasted, even warm, and so does everyone else. The beer also seems OK.
The local food is an acquired taste. It tends to be hot and is served on a tray covered by the local bread (which is like sponge rubber) and you eat it with your fingers (wrapping some of the bread round what you want). The Ghion has reasonable local restaurant - take Rosemeary Arnott there, she will explain everything.
There other local restaurants (reportedly Chinese just outside the entrance, and 'English' at the 'Cottage Restaurant' nearby) but you must go by car after dark - Addis can be dangerous at night, Mengistu's ex-soldiers are armed and rob anyone (one Businessman was killed only half a mile away from the hotel earlier this year), though the government (heavily supported by the local population) has just launched an effective campaign against this.
I use room service (number 2 on the phone) for a continental breakfast (with coffee - ask for this); but they have difficulty providing anything else (except straight coffee and milk) and are very slow.
CREDIT CARDS
One problem is that the only card the Ghion, along with all other government agencies (including the national tourist company) will recognise is American Express. Visa or Mastercard get you nowhere - so we will have to arrange a group Amex (Sarah please note!).
TELEPHONE
This is very expensive, not just the hotel but any out of Ethiopia, and we do not have a local budget; so try and get calls originated in the UK, or use the hotel (but not the office). In emergency the direct office phone can be used, by dialling 004471 and the UK number (thus Milton Keynes is 004471908 - ).
The Ghion's number is 5132222 (from the UK add 0102511).The direct line to the office is 551073. That of Dr Fassil (and secretary) is 114178, and that of the British Council is 550022.
In the UK I am on 0908 679759 at home, and Sarah Avery is on 0908 503753.
TOURING
The car, see below, is only available inside Addis (and really only for business) where there seems to be no tourism (and a map of Addis is impossible to obtain!). So you will have to hire a car (from National Tourist - NT) with a driver guide. This costs 55 bir and then 1.50 bir per kilometer (plus 10% tax) regardless of the number of passengers. Again Amex is the only card accepted, and cash will have to be pounds or dollars.
Within 50 km or so of Addis are very pretty lakes in the Rift Valley, and other scenic drives through the mountains.
The main tourist attractions, though, lie in the North. At Gonder, a $110 dollar scheduled air trip from Addis, there are famous castles, nearby is Lake Tana (where you can stay - as a base - at a modern hotel of the Ghion chain) which has islands with monasteries - a boat trip (up to 7 hours) will be expensive (but is the same regardless of numbers). To the north again is Axum, with its fabulous monoliths (the biggest in the world). To get to the best site of all, Lallibela (with its fabulous churches hewn out of solid rock) you will need to charter a plane (there is no other way to get there!), but you may be able to find other parties wanting to share.
EXCHANGE RATES
The important things, hotel bill etc, will have to be paid in hard currency (dollars or pounds). The official exchange rate thereafter is 3.4 bir to the pound. The black market rate for the dollar is 6 bir to the dollar (three times the oficcial rate, which is 2). You will be offered black market rates in the hotel (by room service, for instance) but it is up to you what you do (the government seem to have no sanction against this flourishing black market, and most foreign nationals take advantage of it). I have, as a matter of principle (in view of the sensitivity of our mission) not done so.
CAR
We are provided with a car, a new orange Mercedes (number 4 - 05502), and driver. He speaks very little English but can usually follow simple place directions, and times to be waiting for you. Dr Fassil's secretary will explain more complicated instructions to him, or find him if you want him urgently.
He will also get you through the tight security security at the gate of the government compound.
OFFICE
The suite of offices is on the third floor of the rear part of the Congress Hall, next to the Council of Ministers building (where the President, Prime Minister and Dr Fassil - on the third floor, room 301? - are based). It has a lecture room, capable of holding 20., I have been using one quite lavish office for everything though. It has an executive desk/chair (at which I work) - and the telephone (number as above) and power etc (you will need a continental plug adapter, though I will leave one (and a UK extension lead) in the locked pedestal cupboard to the left of the desk. I will leave the key for this with the 'guard' who opens the office for us (a civilian one not a military one; though the ground floor is used by the military).
It should be possible eventually to get a modem wired into the phone, and as this is direct dial we should have little problem connecting with the MK computer. Unfortunately, there are two problems at Addis. The first is the lack of a budget for phone calls, and the second is the need to clear with security (since it is in a sensitive location)! Dr Fassil is dealing with both. I am leaving a modem, with cables (and instructions), ready for this in the locked pedestal cupboard. I will also leave software and instruction manuals for Windows and Word for Windows; together with some blank 3.5" diskettes.
I am also leaving in that locked cupboard a Canon bubble jet printer, again with cables (and instructions), for coupling to the parallel printer port. It is currently set up for an Epson 24 pin printer on the parallel port; but you may want to change this, by the dip switches, to an IBM Proprinter. It is very, very slow but does what is needed in an emergency. As yet there is no access to photocopying.
The office also contains a very large settee and four swivelling armchairs, around a large coffee table, so I use this for all my group meetings.
Most important, there is toilet paper and soap for the loo also in the locked cupboard!
There will be a lot of books etc arriving eventually (the air freight is impossible, and even using DHL - 3 days - gets bogged down in export documentation), but there seem to be plenty of spare rooms for this.
STAFF
We are supposed to have a number of staff, but none have yet appeared; Dr Fassil is having difficulty with the bureaucracy. I am pressing for a secretary in the first instance (since it will help both ends having an on-going contact). There is an office next to ours which will be fine for such use.
WORK HOURS
As you will see from the schedule, almost all work is in the evening (to 8.00/9.00 every night) which destroys your social life - but there isn't much of this anyway. I tend to get into the office at around 10.00 am, and work most of the day on OU work, writing etc (since the office is very good for this, and I am always available, I have had some of the first group drop in on spec, and can trap phone calls from the UK).
The driver will take you back to the hotel for lunch (12.00 - 2.00?), but I have normally worked through lunch (surviving only on a supply of Ambo) since I need to lose the weight!
Sundays are free.
ETIQUETTE
In case you ever come across them, it seems to be acceptable to use the terms respectively 'Mister President', 'Prime Minister', and 'Minister', The British Ambassador (James Glaze), who may well want to brief you when you arrive, is 'Your Excellency' - and this also can be used for the President etc.
The most important aspect of the whole operation is confidentiality. YOU MUST TELL NO-ONE WHO IS BEING TAUGHT WHAT. Outsiders are interested and it is difficult to put them off, so I have told them something close to the truth, but sufficiently far away to hide the confidential aspects "I am doing come teaching on behalf of the British Council, based on OU business school material, for various people across a range of organisations, including some ministeries.' If pressed I say I don't really know where my students work, 'this is not part of my brief', but I think some work for the Ministry of Information, the RRC/REST etc and perhaps (one lady) from the Foreign Ministry.
BRITISH COUNCIL
These are agents for the whole operation, though like us do not yet have a signed agreement from the ODA. They are very helpful on all fronts, and Rosemary Arnott, the deputy director, is the prime contact. Michael Sargent is the director, but has only just arrived in the job.
They have a FAX (but not much of a budget for it) so this can be used in an emergency. They will put things in the diplomatic bag for you (but as this only goes once a week - on Monday?, and takes several days, this is not very helpful unless you are in Addis for some time). All material is being shipped to them, since no other address seems to work (Rosemary is handling this in Addis, Sarah in the UK)
WEATHER
Addis is normally like the UK on a June day - steady at around 20 degrees C all year (the rainy season, when it rains in the morning, is August - October). Beware the sun though, it seems mild but such a high altitude means that, even if hazy, you can get burned (I was, on just one half hour walk!).
OTHER HINTS
The altitude (8,000 ft) causes me no problems, but I do get out of breath climbing stairs - so watch out for symptoms.
The people are very helpful, and I have found no problems walking around the streets. There are beggars on most corners (usually cripples). But the best advice is to look straight ahead and ignore them. The only usually ask only once, and do not pester you. Similarly peddlers do not pester you (it is heaven compared with Egypt!).
There is no need to tip, it is included on all bills, but I do so anyway.
I do not think you will need clothes other than those you usually use for the OU (as per June weather), the groups I teach are very casual; so I now wear a sports jacket etc. I do sometimes wear a suit (when visiting ambassadors, embassies etc). I have only worn very casual things on Sundays - so you won't need many of these. The hotel has a very efficient laundry service which will turn things around in a day (or less if you pay more). Just leave them in you room with a filled-out form.
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